Simbolo indiscusso di femminilità dell’immaginario collettivo è il rossetto rosso. Più ancora quando si tratta di un trucco fatto per il burlesque. In particolare le performer preferiscono rossetti rossi e lucidi o con aggiunta di brillantini. Il rossetto rosso sta bene a tutti i colori di pelle perché con le pelli chiare creerà un affascinante contrasto,mante con quelle scure darà un tocco di luce al volto. Ma come mettere il rossetto rosso e cosa preferire, quali marche sono più adatte ad un trucco perfetto?
Per quanto mi riguarda adopero make up di moltissime marche. prima di tutto, in particolare per il trucco di scena, preferisco in assoluto la Kryolan, una casa di cosmetica ad altissimo livello che si occupa sia di trucco da scena (ceroni e prodotti specifici) che di trucco “giornaliero”.
I costi sono paragonabili a quelli di ogni marca di make up professionale, ma, a mio parere, di resa superiore. Il trucco della Kryolan sopporta lo stress a cui è soggetto in scena sotto i riflettori, ma è anche adatto a resistere giornate intere particolarmente calde o afose.
Per il resto, quando non mi serve per la scena, tendo ad usare prodotti della Peggy sage e di altre marche più o meno conosciute, come ad esempio mi trovo molto bene con molti dei prodotti della wycon, che hanno un rapporto qualità/prezzo eccezionale e duna resa notevole.
Ma tornando al nostro rossetto (parlerò più approfonditamente di make up e prodotti in un prossimo articolo), ho scoperto di recente le tinte della kiko. La Kiko è una marca che non preferisco particolarmente, ma le tinte sono assolutamente perfette. Sono però principalmente lucide, perché hanno uno stick a due lati, dove da un lato c’è la tinta e dall’altro i fissante che è un lucido. Io sono certo una che riesce a tenere anche i rossetti normali per ore, ma questa tinta mi resta anche quando mangio, e questo lo trovo assolutamente insuperabile. La tinte in generale si tolgono soltanto a contatto con cose molto calde o si rovinano un po’ se ci si passa degli olii. Ma con un comportamento regolare, cioè tenendo la tinta senza bere tisane o mangiare cose particolarmente oleose, può durare anche mezza giornata.
Altrettanto eccezionale avevo trovato la tinta della wycon, che essendo però matta, secca molto le labbra ed avendo le labbra molto delicate, a lungo andare me le aveva seccate. Quindi, anche se l’effetto matto è bellissimo, preferisco il lucido, ma senza problemi di secchezza. Del resto, matto o lucido, il rossetto è una cosa del tutto personale e la scelta sarà fatta secondo i propri gusti.
Ci sono vari consigli su come mettere il rossetto. Il primo in assoluto da non dimenticare MAI è: se avete labbra piccole, non uscite troppo dai contorni quando mettete il rossetto. Disegnatele appena sopra la linea di confine delle labbra, risulteranno di sicuro un po’ più grandi, ma non avranno quell’orribile effetto colwn che si disegnano alcune donne, sperando di recuperare una forma differente, ma combinando degli enormi pasticci inguardabili. Se avete delle labbra grandi ma irregolari, risidegnate tranquillamente le labbra prendendo al esempio il lato più grande, ma ricordate di non esagerare. Se invece avete delle labbra già grandi, maglio restare nei confini delle labbra sesse.
Ricordate che il volto di suo ha un’armonia che, se si esagera con il trucco, può essere guastata e rendere il volto disarmonico. A mio avviso è meglio avere un volto armonioso che delle labbra grandi. La mira insomma deve essere sempre l’armonia.
Se volete far risaltare le labbra, grandi o piccole che siano, potete adoperare un trucco che adoperano molti truccatori che si occupano dei servizi fotografici: ridisegnare il contorno delle labbra (subito fuori delle labbra intendo) con una matita bianca e poi sfumarla, il tutto prima di mettere il rossetto. Questa lieve cornice più chiara darà risalto alle labbra.
Per una maggiore durata del rossetto sarà sempre meglio tamponare della cipria trasparente prima di procedere nella stesura della matita.
In linea generale la cipria trasparente va sempre messa dopo ogni tipo di make up cremoso (tipo fondotinta in crema o liquido) perché renderà la pelle più compatta e toglierà quella lieve lucidità che ci da sempre il fondotinta.
E se non vi piace il rossetto rosso sulle vostre labbra? Vi consiglio di non indossare mai il rossetto rosso senza make up completo. Sono sicura che (tranne in rarissimi casi) se siete ben truccate, il rossetto rosso vi starà benissimo.
Se invece avete deciso di mettere dei brillantini, la tinta, essendo secca, non andrà bene. Sarà necessari adoperare un rossetto molto cremoso e poi tamponarvi sopra i brillantini con un bastoncino cotonato.
Quindi ricapitolando ed andando per ordine: 1) mettere fondotinta e cipria prima di mettere il rossetto sulle labbra. Se non volete fare un trucco completo mettete almeno un po’ di cipria trasparente prima di mettere il rossetto. 2) Disegnate una lieve linea sul contorno esterno delle labbra e sfumatela bene diprima di applicare il rossetto. 3) disegnate il contorno delle labbra con una matita dello stesso colore del rossetto. 4) applicate il rossetto col pennello o la tinta con la sua spugnetta.
Lasciate asciugare e regalate al mondo il più bello dei sorrisi.
Burlesque Show a cura di Candy Rose con le performers Lola Maldad e Mystique Bloom.
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